The haori is a loose jacket worn over a kimono. Originally made of hemp and worn by men only, during the early 1800s the geisha in the Tokyo district of Fukagawa – known for their cutting-edge fashion choices – began to wear this jacket over their kimono. This gave them an androgynous look. They became celebrated for this style to the extent that the term haori geisha came to refer to geisha with a proud and refined manner. According to anthropologist Liza Dalby, by the 1930s, when women wearing haori had become a common sight in Japan, the geisha stopped doing so.